Sell Magic Cards: Buylist or Marketplace?

Cashing out Magic cards means either accepting a fixed-rate offer from a store's buylist right now, or posting them on platforms such as TCGplayer or eBay until someone purchases them. Both routes carry a real cost that the sticker hides. Below is the honest arithmetic for both, plus guidance on choosing the best option per card.

How marketplaces make payments

You set your asking price on either marketplace and wait for a buyer. Once a purchase happens, eBay keeps roughly 13% of most trading-card transactions while TCGplayer claims a similar share for direct orders, with each layering on payment processing fees. You still purchase shipping materials, make the trip to mail everything, and handle buyer inquiries. The price an item sells for is not what you keep.

How buylists work

A buylist gives its price before you send anything, then takes the card for that price when it gets there. That number is lower than the card's retail price, because the shop's profit comes from the spread. You avoid making a listing, taking photos, answering buyer questions, dealing with bidders who do not pay, or getting an "item not as described" claim after a fortnight. If you are going to buy cards from that shop, taking store credit usually gets you meaningfully more than cash.

The true test

Asking in general "which pays more" is the wrong question. What matters is what each path nets after its own tolls come out:

  • Marketplace: what the buyer pays, less roughly 13% for fees, less shipping and packaging, less your hours, less the chance of a return or a deadbeat. Best case: patient sales of cards whose buylist-to-market spread exceeds the toll.
  • Cash via Buylist locks in a price today, with no work once the box ships. It suits high-volume lots, consistently sought-after cards, and sellers preferring free time over marginal gains.
  • For store credit, Buylist offers the best value when the shop's stock has cards you want.

We priced a 5,604-card collection across four shops. The top buyer paid over twice what the lowest did, with the leader shifting from one card to the next. This pattern holds across channels too: certain cards earn a premium via marketplaces that covers listing costs, whereas others clear more through buylists than netting out eBay's fees.

How to choose, card by card

  1. Price both routes. See what the card fetches and what dealers offer. Take the marketplace toll, about 13% plus postage, off the sale price first, then compare.
  2. Check the Price. A $60 card earns a listing, while one priced at $1.50 does not. Bulk goes through a buylist or nowhere.
  3. See who pays the most today. Buylists move every week, so whoever pays best keeps changing. Our buylist pages mostly track exactly this.
  4. Split the cards. Those commanding genuine market value go up for sale; the remainder head to the highest-paying buylist. Sending it all one place is the costly compromise.

Where routing belongs

CardRouter performs this comparison across each uploaded collection, card by card. It gathers quotes from every tracked buylist, accounts for how individual shops grade, then directs each card toward the highest offer, factoring in platform fees whenever selling outright pays more. A pricing study across four shops demonstrates the real-world value, while our guide on holding versus selling addresses if a sale makes sense.

See what your cards are worth

Add your collection and CardRouter compares every buylist we track, then splits the cards between shops for the highest total payout.

Price my collection